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Built in large
numbers (7,815) and flown by the U.S. Navy and Marine Corps in the dark days of
the Pacific War, the Grumman F4F Wildcat was almost not built at all. It
was the loser of a 1936 U.S. Navy fighter competition to the Brewster F-2
Buffalo, and the XF4F-1 was ordered as a backup in case the Buffalo did not meet
expectations. Through further development the Wildcat finally entered
British and U.S. Navy service as the Martlet Mk I and the F4F-3 respectively,
and rapidly overtook the Buffalo in service after that types disastrous combat
debut. Based on combat experience with the type Grumman produced the
upgraded F4F-4. This version introduced armor, self sealing fuel tanks, an
extra pair of guns, and folding wings. The Wildcat would serve on for the
rest of the war in various upgraded versions. Its greatest fame, though,
would always be associated with those early F4F-3 and F4F-4 versions which
served during the initial campaigns in the Pacific, helping to turn the tide of
the war against the Japanese. One of the individuals who contributed to
that fame was Marine pilot, and Medal of Honor winner, Joe Foss. Arriving
on Guadalcanal on 9 October, 1942, Foss made ace within 9 days. By the 23
of October he had scored 11 kills, but had also dead sticked 4 badly shot up
planes into Henderson Field. By the time he left Guadalcanal on 26
January, 1943, wracked by malaria, he had become the first American fighter
pilot to equal Eddie Rickenbacker's record of 26 kills. On a sad note,
Foss recently passed away on January 1, 2003. The aircraft I elected to
build shows an F4F-4 as it was marked on 23 October, 1942: the day Foss recorded
four kills. Given the situation at Guadalcanal pilots flew aircraft as
they were available (in other words flyable condition), so just about any
aircraft could have been associated with any pilot during this time, and in the
Osprey book Wildcat Aces of World War 2 there are at least a couple profiles of
aircraft that Foss is identified with.
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Click on
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THE KIT
The best starting point in 1/72 scale is the Hasegawa version.
It has finely recessed panel lines, simple construction, good accuracy, and a
very clear canopy. The primary drawbacks are the minimal, and incorrect,
cockpit detail along with the bare wheel wells. These two problems are
easily fixed using the excellent (and cheap) True Details resin set that covers
both of these areas. The cockpit is a drop in affair, and I painted it
according to the instructions that come with the resin set and based on photos
in the Detail and Scale book. The only "gotcha" with the cockpit
is you have to remember to cut out the holes for the fuselage windows. These
windows were glued in carefully using Tenax before anything else was done to the
fuselage. CA glue was applied to the outside of the windows to fill the
seams, then they were sanded, polished back to their original clarity, and panel
lines were rescribed. The same ease of assembly is true for the wheel well,
which also had some strip styrene added as fuselage stringers and lightening
holes drilled out on the main landing gear brace. In addition the resin
insert fills the gap at the rear of the wheel well, preventing that ugly
"see through" look. Once done this assembly was painted
light gull gray with the landing gear legs in black. After the fuselage
was glued together, though, most of the cockpit work became invisible! The
wings, tail planes, canopy and small bits were added, a small amount of filler
was required to blend in the windscreen, and the model was ready for painting.
PAINTING AND DECALING
First the canopy and fuselage windows were masked using Tamiya
tape, then the painting began. Gunze Sangyo H315 (FS#36440/light gull
gray) was used for the undersurfaces, while Polly Scale 505088 (US Navy blue
gray ) was applied to the upper surfaces. Once this had dried Future was
applied as a gloss coat and allowed to dry for 24 hours. The decals came
primarily from Super scale sheet #72-287. They show Foss' aircraft as it
was marked on 23 October 1942 and were cross checked against the Osprey
publication previously mentioned. The decals went on with no major
problems, Solvaset being used to make them conform. Once these were dry
the model was cleaned off to get rid of any setting solution, and another coat
of Future was applied to seal the decals. Weathering was then applied
using artists oils along the control surfaces and wing folds. Thinking
about it now, given the environment these aircraft operated in, I should have
weathered the model more. A couple of coats of Polly S were used to get
the proper degree of matte, masking was removed, then the gunpowder stains were
added using artists charcoal. Antenna wires (from stretched sprue) and the
wheels were the only things left to glue, navigation and formation lights were
painted, and another model hit the shelves. For those of you looking for a
quick and accurate build I highly recommend this kit. The True Details set
is a great addition, much more for the highly visible wheel well detail than for
the almost invisible cockpit.
Murph
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